Shakespeare in the Park - Assignment Week 1

Each week (except for over the U.S. holiday weeks in November and December) we'll have steps posted for working on different parts of this beautiful quilt. I started with a small block, Evening Star (Variable Star), so we get the feel of the fabrics we've chosen and how the pieces start to go together.

We are making Blocks Y and Z from The Creative Pattern Book. The first component is the flying geese and you can find three methods of making this here on the blog.

The first week we are making blocks with dark "sky" pieces (the small side triangles) and light (background) for your geese which is the large triangle.

Your tasks for the week are:

1. Square up your fabrics and make sure you are cutting on the grain.

2. Make 24 flying geese units with a light goose and dark sky. This will be part of 6 Y/Z blocks.

Have a good week!

Assignment Week 2

Straight of Grain - what's up with that?

One of the things I found interesting in the fabric cutting for the Shakespeare in the Park project was that the measurements were broken into 18" widths -- fat quarter size! I had not thought much about it until I realized how much easier it is to find the grain line in a piece this size! On page 25 of The Creative Pattern Book, there's some good information on why she cuts lengthwise on the grain, and I thought it might be helpful to have a little lesson on grain lines in fabric.

For all you old hands at sewing, none of this is going to be news :) but I think some of our newer quilters might not have a clear idea of how to use the grain of the fabric to improve their blocks!

The grain refers to the crosswise and lengthwise threads that make up your fabric. On the printed side it might be a little harder to determine where the threads run, so turn it to the wrong side and give a look ... from selvedge edge to edge is called the crosswise grain and
the length of the fabric is the ... right! lengthwise grain! Any cut off those two grain lines will have a bias edge to some degree.

The crosswise grain generally has a little more "give" in it than the lengthwise. If you cut a small square of your fabric and pull on the top and bottom you will see a bit of stretch, where if you pull on it side to side it is less "wiggly". The lengthwise grain is more stable and that's why it is often called for when cutting borders and sashing -- where you want the most stable pieces to frame and square-up your work.

In cutting your fabric, you want to make sure you are cutting with the grain. How?

You can eyeball it by following the threads (easier to do with a fat quarter in front of you!),
Take one ruler and line it up to a crosswise thread and one ruler perpendicular to it on a lengthwise thread and square up that end. Or you can actually pull a thread on many fabrics ... if you get hold of a thread and inch it along to pull it out, much like you were gathering
something, you will have a perfect line to follow when cutting strips.

Why is the grain so important?

Cutting your fabric squares with edges along the straight grain will minimize stretching during measuring, marking, cutting and sewing. Straight grain edges helps to ensure that your blocks don't stretch or become distorted. Triangles, without exception, are going to have at least one bias edge to them. If you make sure that the straight edge is the outside edge of the block, you will find a nicely pieced block. The method of cutting a square and then making two diagonal cuts will put the straight edge on the outside edge of the block.

That's all I have to say about the straight grain of fabric :)

Design Elements -- A Challenge for YOU!

And now for something completely different.... (but related I PROMISE!!!!) If you have completed the flying geese for the Shakespeare in the Park quilt and need something to keep you busy this week -- try this one for size!

I have recently gone back to school. This is one of the reasons for my slack in the posting department. I love quilting so much that when I was presented with the opportunity to go back to school I wanted to do something that would enhance my art, so I am going back for Graphic Design. I am learning so much and wanted to share this with you. Not only am I learning about color and value, I am learning about design.

Design is such an important aspect to art -- including quilting -- and I think we tend to overlook it sometimes. Many times we have so many things presented to us that we get in a cut and paste mentality. We fall into a feather/stipple/crosshatch rut. For me it was hard to come up with my own ideas, when I could look at everyone else’s ideas and they seemed to come so easily.

To help break us out of that rut and to help us approach design with a new eye, I present to you a challenge to look at your world and the design elements in you’re every day. When you take the time to look at the design elements around you, I promise you, you will look at your quilting differently.

Your challenge for the next week is to look at the natural elements that are around you every day and take pictures of them. Photograph what you see -‐focus on seeing things differently; a new perspective or something you haven’t noticed before. Look from different angles, different position, see the subtle and not-so-subtle shadings.

Take pictures of Line, Color, Texture, Pattern and Shape

Look for signs, text, symbols, color and pattern. Use both nature and man-made objects. Do not set up something, but capture the element "in the wild" so to speak. Challenge yourself with interesting compositions, experiment with emphasis through focusing the lens The trick here is to stay AWAY from the craft/fabric room. Get out there – Looking at the elements of design in your everyday world will help you out in so many ways. It will inspire you, help you out of a rut, and let you see the art all around you. Take as many pictures as you would like, but please only send me the top picture in each category. E-mail them to us at nonjay@gmail.com. Have them all in to me by Monday the 12^th of October. Linda and I will pick the winner out of all the submissions Wednesday the 14^th of October. As incentive for your challenge I have a Moda Honey bun and 2 charm packs for the winner. Here are some examples that I took when I had this challenge presented to me.

TEXTURE

COLOR

LINE

SHAPE

PATTERN

Good luck and REMEMBER TO HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!

Really quick note - Have to add - these have to be YOUR pictures that YOU took
No snagging pics off google!!! :)

Flying Geese - Method Three

This method will give you four flying geese when you’re finished

Let’s revisit our formula for flying geese: A finished block is half as tall as it is wide ... so a 3 width on my block will have a 1/5 height. But you can use this formula for any size flying goose It will always work for you

In this method we’re going to cut a large square and 4 smaller squares. The large square is again going to be the finished width of the block plus 1.25 . You’re also going to cut 4 smaller squares that are the height of the finished block plus 7/8".

Large block is 4.25" (3 + 1.25)
Small squares are 2 3/8 (1.5 + 7/8)

Put one small square in the upper left corner of your larger square, and one small square in the lower right of the larger square.

Draw a diagonal line through both small squares. This is your guide line/cutting line.

Now, stitch a scant 1/4 on each side of your guide line. Cut apart on your cutting line. Press open with the seams toward your little squares (the sky piece).

Now take another little square and place it on the left upper corner of your sewn piece and draw a diagonal line.

Stitch a scant 1/4 on each side of the diagonal line, cut apart, and press open.

And here's your four flying geese units!

Fabric Postcards

Have you received these little postcard gems from your quilty friends and now you want to send one back? Have you marveled at how lovely it is to receive a miniature piece of art in the mail -- instead of just another bill? This set of instructions will have your imagination running wild as you create fabric postcards for any occasion. Believe me when I tell you that there is no one method for making these little postal gems ... what you see here is just "my way" so adapt it as you wish!

First up is a supply list. On my cutting table I've gathered my Steam-a-Seam (fusible stuff), a roll of Timtex, which is a very stiff interfacing like what you find in baseball caps, for example. I also have a little supply of Halloween fabrics and some pieces that I'm going to turn into applique pumpkins. This, plus an iron and a sewing machine, and you're good to go!

The Timtex is the foundation of my postcard ... it's stiff, I can fuse fabric to it, it keeps the card nice and neat as it travels through the mail system. Some people use batting, heavy interfacing, wool pieces ... whatever works for you to give you the texture you want. I just prefer the stiffer "card". A postcard measures 4" x 6" and less than 1/4" thick -- if any of these dimensions are exceeded, you can still mail your treasure, but you'll pay more in postage. I frequently have Postal Clerks whip out their little template to make sure that my cards fit the requirements, so best to not fudge on the sizing. I'm cutting it into 6" strips and then cutting across into 4" x 6" rectangles.

I'm going to be working first on the "design side" ... that way, any stitching I do will be covered up by the fabric applied to the message/address side. I took some fabric bits and applied the fusible film to the wrong side, following the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the paper shield and place the fabric on one side of your foundation. Heat with the iron to apply it. Here's my first rectangle with the fabric on one side. I trimmed any extra fabric from around the edges.

Now I need some things to decorate my postcard. I found a picture of a spiderweb and spider in a coloring book and traced it onto the fusible paper ... also in my little stash of stuff was a paper-pieced candy corn that is just the right size for a postcard. The little pumpkins and bats (which glow in the dark, by the way -- can you see a post office employee late at night with my postcard??!!) I cut out of an apron pan or something and I've applied fusible to the wrong side of the fabric.

Then I cut out the appliques, remove the protective backing and arrange the pieces on my postcard. One of the reasons I really like Steam-a-Seam is that it is repositionable before you press it into permanent place. It's good for me because I frequently go between upstairs and downstairs carrying my little projects and this way the pieces don't blow off.

Up in my sewing room I rummaged through my thread boxes and found some great funky thread to use on my postcards. Then I had an idea that I could write a little message with thread using the letters on my machine -- a feature I've never used! So, I programmed in BOO and HAPPY HALLOWEEN and did some decorative stitching on a few of the cards.

To finish off the applique pieces, I'm using a great orange thread (Superior Bottom Line is my best friend) and just stitching a little buttonhole stitch around the pieces. The fusible will keep it pretty well in place, but the extra stitching around it really sets it off. You can use any stitch you have -- zig zag, satin stitch, even leave it as a raw edge piece! With the top finished, I have two more steps.

First, I need to apply the message/address side to the postcard (which is going to cover up my stitching, too).

I'm using bleached muslin for these cards -- use anything you have that is light enough to write on. I've used unbleached muslin, pastels, batiks, etc. -- whatever you have at hand. Apply your fusible to the wrong side of your backing fabric and then cut into 4" x 6" pieces. Press it into place on the back side of your postcards.
And now for the final touch -- your postcard "binding" ... today I'm still using my decorative threads and decide to do a close zig zag all around the edges of my postcard. This is doing two things -- first, it's giving my "art" a frame, and second, it's ensuring that all my layers are securely joined and ready for travel. Next step for you -- write a message and address it, take it off to the post office and send it on its way!!


Hope you had fun making these postcards!

Flying Geese - Method Two

Method Two - Cut four/sew one

This method cuts 4 goose pieces (large triangle) and 8 sky pieces that are then sewn one at a time.

You will need one square cut the size of your desired width plus 1.25" for the geese and four squares the size of the finished height plus 7/8".

Cut the large square into four triangles by cutting diagonally both ways. Cut your small squares in half diagonally.

Because I’m working on the Shakespeare in the Park quilt, I want my large square to be 4.25" and cut into four triangles to make a 3" x 1.5" finished (desired finished width is 3" + 1.25") block and my little squares are going to be 2-3/8" (desired finished height is 1.5" + 7/8").

Take one small triangle and line it up face down with the left side of the larger triangle and sew a scant 1/4" seam. Press open.

Take your second triangle and place it face down on the right side of the larger triangle and sew a scant 1/4" seam. Press open.


Your flying goose should measure 3.5" x 2". Again, make sure you have the little 1/4" seam allowance where the triangles meet. If you don’t then your seams may be off a bit – measure them!

Tip No. 3 : Since your triangles have bias edges, handle gently so they aren’t stretched out of shape.

Tip No. 4: Be sure to read what Judy says in her book regarding the little tips sticking out all over! You'll be glad you did!

Flying Geese - Method One

This method uses rectangles and squares to create the triangles.

For your cutting: The goose (rectangle) should be the finished length you want plus 1/2".
The sky (little triangles) we’re going to cut squares that should be half of the length of the finished goose plus 1/2"

Because I’m working on the Shakespeare in the Park quilt, I want my rectangles to be 3.5" x 2" to make a 3 x 1.5" block and my little squares are going to be 2".

Cut rectangles 3.5" x 2" Cut squares 2"

Take one square and lay it face down on the left side of your rectangle, aligning it with the sides and top. Stitch diagonally from the inside corner of the square to the outside corner of the square. Trim the excess fabric away and press open.














Take the second square and line it up on the right side of the rectangle, and again, stitch from the inside corner to the outside.
Trim the excess fabric 1/4" away from the stitch line and press both sides open.

There! You’ve made your first flying geese block!


Tip No. 2 : There should be 1/4" of seam allowance where the two triangles meet (see where the tip of the scissors are pointing in the photo). If there is less, you may cut off the point of the goose when joining the next parts.

And what about those cute little "waste" triangles that you cut off (that will also multiply like crazy when you're not looking!)? turn them into half-square blocks and then pinwheels and before you know it you have a table runner or little coffee table mats, or aim big for a wall hanging!